Ever since Robert Parker introduced his 100-point system in the late 1970s, winemakers, retailers and consumers have been obsessed with scores.
We’re not immune at Halliday – far from it. And while there is merit in the system, which evaluates a wine based on its colour, aroma, flavour, structure, finish and typicity, there’s a lot that can’t be conveyed by a number.
Unlike in a school grading system (which is what Parker’s system was modelled on), there aren't really ‘rights’ or ‘wrongs’ when it comes to wine, so there will always be an element of subjectivity to the assessment. Experienced tasters can tell you whether a wine is full-bodied, balanced, or high acid, and appraise the permissible threshold for faults, but they can’t say if you will enjoy drinking it.
Scores also don’t consider context. Where, how, in what company, in what mood and with what all play into your appreciation of a wine. A technical analysis would place a Figeac above a simple picpoul, but a glass of the latter with a plate of freshly shucked oysters on the coast is hard to beat.
The other important facts about a wine that a score won’t reveal include price and value (which is fair in certain settings, but arguably significant for the consumer), and pedigree. A wine with flaws will generally be marked down, even if those flaws – such as a hint of brett, which can add character and complexity, or volatile acidity (VA), which can add lift – make the wine more interesting.
The Halliday Tasting Team.
Scores also don’t take into account the fact that quite often we don’t feel like drinking a complex, thought-provoking wine. Dining at a three-hat restaurant is a treat, but not something anyone would want to do every night. It’s the same with wine. Sometimes, we just want something that’s simple and well-made.
Lastly, there can be significant discrepancy between how the system operates and is perceived country to country, and even critic by critic – one woman’s 90 may be another’s 95. And despite the emphasis we place on scores, we sometimes forget what the points actually stand for.
For instance, wines that score between 86–89 are wines that are recommended by the Halliday Tasting Team. These are wines of “bronze medal standard; well-produced, flavoursome wines, usually not requiring cellaring”. Scores of between 90–94 are given to wines of “silver medal standard, demonstrating great quality, style and character, and worthy of a place in any cellar”. Wines awarded 88–89 points are considered to be on the cusp of silver, which should be a resounding endorsement, yet are often sidelined in favour of those displaying the gold roundel.
The best source of information regarding a wine’s character and style is the tasting note that accompanies the score. It’s in the written words that you’ll learn not only what a wine tastes and smells like, but also what went into making it, quirks about the vineyard it was grown in, and whether it sounds like something that you may like. It’s here that the critic will reveal that they marked this wine down because it finished short, not because it lacked elsewhere, or that another wine, while technically perfect, would be better with another few years in bottle.
Without minimising the achievements of gold and silver medal wines, which are unquestionably worthy of their high scores, we think it’s time to also shine a spotlight on bronze. Below, you'll find written reviews for four wines. Without looking at the score (which we've deliberately omitted for the sake of this exercise), do they sound like wines you'd like to drink? We think so.
2024 Cassegrain Wines Seasons Rosé Cabernet Sauvignon Sangiovese, Hilltops
A blend of cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and merlot. A delicate rose quartz hue in the glass. Filled with peaches and sliced summer cherries. Delightfully fruity and with an invigorating acidity that partners well with the stone fruit characters. Bone dry with nectarine stone on the finish. Very satisfying; meant for outdoor drinking in the sun. - Shanteh Wale, Halliday Wine Companion.
RRP $25 | Drink to 2027 | Shop this wine | cassegrainwines.com.au
2024 Gill Estate Rivah Sauvignon Blanc, Murray Darling
Composed, compact and shining in sauvignon herbaceousness. Sweet florals mix with passionfruit, lime and grassy notes, but the star here is the punchy scent and flavours of fresh-cut herbs delivered with crunchy acid panache. - Jeni Port, Halliday Wine Companion.
RRP $20 | Drink to 2026 | Shop this wine | gillestate.com.au
2022 Highland Heritage Estate Generations Merlot, Orange
Blood plum skin, mulberry and cola. A hint of fig and dried rhubarb. The wine benefits from a decant and swirl to show a sumac and paprika spice backdrop. Lingering acidity; this is made for those that want some pep in their merlot's step. A lively wine. - Shanteh Wale, Halliday Wine Companion.
RRP $20 | Drink to 2033 | Shop this wine | highlandheritage.com.au
2023 Highland Heritage Estate Generations Pinot Noir, Orange
Raspberries, stewed rhubarb and pomegranate juice. Black tea, coffee grinds and wet tobacco leaves. A lick of cherry syrup, too. A sunny and light-on-its-feet wine with red berry juice and some savoury oak spices. Ideal for picnics and drinking slightly chilled. Where else can you find pinot noir for this price? - Shanteh Wale, Halliday Wine Companion
RRP $20 | Drink to 2030 | Shop this wine | highlandheritage.com.au
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