From Marlborough to Martinborough: a quick guide to New Zealand wine

Surely everyone has an Aotearoa moment, the Maori word for New Zealand. For wine folk, the entrée has more than likely been a glass of distinctively pungent, now ubiquitous, Marlborough sauvignon blanc. It’s doubtful any country has made such an impact in such a short space of time, its success in putting the spotlight on a variety matched to a region unrivalled. So much so, it’s now a category unto itself. 

It’s extraordinary to consider there was barely a drop made in the 1980s. Today, Marlborough sauvignon blanc is New Zealand’s most exported wine. A Kiwi triumph, complete with pot of gold. 

Its success has been a gateway to discover the country’s other regions and styles – better, more complex and diverse offerings – while learning about the dedicated, personality-plus folk who grow the grapes and craft unique wines.

Want to know a bit more? While there’s not the scope here to cover all 19 Geographical Indications (GIs), let’s island hop to some of the key areas and explore their distinctive wines and producers.

Since Marlborough has been the stepping stone, let’s start there, at the tip of the South Island. 

SOUTH ISLAND 

Marlborough 

The country’s largest wine region is awash with sauvignon blanc, with the grape accounting for a staggering 23,834ha of Marlborough’s close to 30,000ha of vineyard plantings. Even so, pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay and riesling are coveted. It’s a spectacular place with a maritime climate, flanked by the Pacific Ocean on the east, buffered by the Wither Hill and Richmond Ranges, and with the Wairau and Awatere Rivers running through it. It enjoys some of the highest sunshine hours in the country, and its soil types, including alluvial ones, are loved by sauvignon blanc. Importantly, the diurnal difference during summer is about 11 degrees, which creates natural acidity and intense fruit flavours. However, with success often comes complacency: a lot of sauvignon blanc is perfunctory and homogenous. It gives a false impression this variety is New Zealand’s finest white. It is not – chardonnay holds the accolade, followed closely by riesling. However, seek out top producers, including those excelling in barrel-fermented or extended skin-contact styles, to enjoy the variety at its best. 

Cloudy Bay – David Hohnen, then of Margaret River’s Cape Mentelle fame, and winemaker Kevin Judd were instrumental in setting up this pioneering venture in 1985, and single-handedly spearheaded the global demand for a little white grape called sauvignon blanc. The fresh, easy-drinking style continues today but the most compelling is the barrel-fermented Te Koko. It also produces a top pinot noir, Te Wahi, with fruit from Central Otago. 

Greywacke – Twenty-five years after founding Cloudy Bay, Kevin Judd set up Greywacke in the Omaka Valley. He makes excellent ‘wild’ sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris and pinot noir. As if one talent isn’t enough, annoyingly, he’s also a brilliant photographer. 

Dog Point Vineyard – Where the Brancott and Omaka Valleys meet is where you’ll find one of the largest privately owned, certified organic vineyards producing four excellent wines: a chardonnay, a pinot noir, a sauvignon blanc, and one of my favourites, a barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc called Section 94 – it’s flinty, funky and complex. 

Framingham Wines – In the Wairau Valley, about 20 kms away from the main town of Blenheim, this producer put riesling on the NZ wine map. Credit to punk-rock lover Dr Andrew Hedley, chief winemaker from 2001 to 2020, for catapulting the various styles now orchestrated by Andrew Brown. 

Hans Herzog – The man behind the brand discovered a patch of land that was warm, dry and had sandy, gravelly soils that reminded him of the Médoc. So, with wife Therese, they left Switzerland and in 1994 set about planting red Bordeaux varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot on the banks of the Wairau River at Blenheim. Today, their organic site and winemaking pushes boundaries, with so-called alternative varieties from arneis and grüner veltliner to a host of cool reds such as blaufränkisch, zweigelt, lagrein, tempranillo and even saperavi. 

The Marlborist – This is an ambitious, newish project from experienced operators; winemaker Rich Ellis, viticulturist Stu Dudley and brand director Dave Nash. They source great chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc and aim to craft benchmark wines.

On the radar: Astrolabe, A Thousand Gods, Blank Canvas, Churton, Clos Henri, Deep Down, Eaton Wines, Esses, Fromm, Mahi, No 1 Family Estate and Te Whare Ra.

Central Otago

Of all Aotearoa’s regions, Central Otago is the most dramatic and its wines perhaps the most dynamic. The latter due to the confluence of the pioneering spirit of its first producers, not so long ago in the late ’70s and ’80s, with the ongoing open-mindedness, determination and savviness of the modern crew. Oh, and world-class pinot noir sure helps. All up there are 2055ha under vine, 80 per cent of which is dedicated to the beguiling red.

It’s the most southerly wine region in the world, and the only area in New Zealand with a continental climate. Its rugged, picturesque landscape is shaped by ranges and basins, glacial lakes and rivers and the dominating Southern Alps. It enjoys a unique soil profile – given Central Otago is basically a big block of schist, that metamorphic rock that along with quartz, mica, silica and river gravels make up the free-draining, low vigour blend – perfect for pinot noir and aromatic whites. Each of the six subregions – Gibbston, Bannockburn, Cromwell (which takes in Lowburn and Pisa), Bendigo, Wanaka and Alexandra – have unique ways of expressing pinot’s charm. Where the top producers are and how they farm also reveals regional diversity. While in smaller quantities, there is also thrilling chardonnay, riesling and some very fine pinot gris alongside other aromatic whites. 

Rippon (Wanaka) – Pioneering producer of breathtakingly beautiful pinot noir. While the vines slope down towards Lake Wanaka’s shoreline, the view at the top taking in Ruby Island and the Southern Alps is one of the most spectacular of any region I’ve visited. It’s a contemplative site, covered in schist and biodynamically farmed. The wines exude a strong sense of place, orchestrated under the watchful eye of vigneron Nick Mills. The Mills family has farmed Rippon since 1921, but Nick’s parents Rolfe and Lois planted the first vines proper in 1982. The single block and mature vine pinots are a revelation. Gorgeous gewürztraminer too. 

Felton Road (Bannockburn) – Trailblazers in organics/biodynamics, in quality, in caring for the land and for those who work on it (seems to be a theme in Otago). Led by the wonderfully eccentric creative visionary Nigel Greening and winemaker Blair Walters, who has been there for every vintage. They extract every nuance from all four sites and blocks, and there’s detail yet a purity and an honesty to the wines. There are several disparate pinots crafted, including Block 3 and Block 5, as well as palate-tingling riesling and some of the best chardonnay in the country from Block 6 and Block 2. All this adds up to Felton Road being one of finest producers in the country.  

Mount Edward (Gibbston) – Duncan Forsythe is a riesling champion, an experimenter – the O2 Chenin is sherry-esque, fermented in older oak, on lees for a year then fortified and bottled three years later – and a purveyor of great pinot noir. The single vineyard offerings are stupendous. 

Valli (Gibbston) – Named after owner/winemaker and regional legend Grant Taylor’s great-great-grandfather, Giuseppe Valli, its wines showcase site with intensity and purity. Grant planted the original vineyard in Gibbston, one of the coolest subregions, in ’99, but also makes pinots from Bannockburn and Bendigo. The winery is based in Cromwell. In ’17 he added a new site at Waitaki, described on the website as “New Zealand’s newest and most exciting wine growing region.” Winemaking is in the capable hands of Jen Parr and, aside from pinot, there’s riveting chardonnay too. 

Quartz Reef (Bendigo) – An organic/biodynamic farmer, Rudi Bauer is another legend of the Otago wine scene, who aside from crafting wonderful pinot, has made Quartz Reef into a sparkling producer of note. Add-ons include delicious pinot gris and grüner veltliner. 

On the radar: Akarua, Burn Cottage, Chard Farm, Dicey Wines, Grasshopper Rock, Matt Connell Wines, Maude, Mt Difficulty, O Naturel, Prophet’s Rock, Rockburn, Sato, Two Paddocks, Wooing Tree.

NORTH ISLAND

Hawke's Bay

The second-largest wine region (covering 4786ha) and the oldest, Hawke’s Bay delivers diversity, but more importantly, quality. 

In a way, it is the dress-circle of New Zealand wine. It’s also beautiful. Emanating out from the alluvial Heretaunga Plains, with the coastal towns of Napier (the gorgeous art-deco capital of the world) to one side and Hastings and Havelock North on the other, it is flush with rolling hills that extend up to 1724 metres, and the Kaweka Range. Aotearoa’s first vines were planted here in 1851 by missionaries, and its first winery, Mission Estate, enjoys the title of the country’s oldest.  

Chardonnay is the star but other aromatic whites and some cool skin-contact wines are there for the taking, plus wonderful spicy, peppery syrah and Bordeaux reds, especially structured cabernet sauvignon. And no one talks about Hawke’s Bay without mentioning the famed Gimblett Gravels. Since 2001, the 800ha area has been a legally protected and defined subregion, “strictly determined by the gravelly soils laid down by the old Ngaruroro River” exposed after floods in the 1860s, according to the winegrowers’ association. If a Hawke’s Bay wine states Gimblett Gravels on its label, 95 per cent of the fruit must be from that designated area. Craggy Range has been instrumental in taking the famous soils and region to the world, so let’s start there.

Craggy Range (Havelock North) – In 1998, Australian businessman Terry Peabody and his wife Mary wanted to leave a legacy for their children and future generations. It had to be fine wine, and it had to be created from scratch. The indefatigable Steve Smith MW (now Pyramid Valley/Smith & Sheth) laid the foundations; as one of NZ’s leading viticulturists, he knew exactly where the site should be – Hawke's Bay on Gimblett Gravels. The rest is history. It is a success story, enjoying global attention because the wines are so good. The winery and surrounding vineyards take in the most impressive backdrop of the Te Mata Peak. Although back working in Australia, Julian Grounds, who remains a consultant at Craggy Range after a five-year stint as chief winemaker, says: “A region entirely defined by soil type, well more like stones really, is very special. It is one of the most savoury, new world regions I’ve ever encountered. The wines are unique. I was getting amazing complexity and ripeness, yet the wines were only reaching the high 12s (ABV) and you can’t do that in many places.” The prestige collection includes the Le Sol syrah, The Quarry, which is a cabernet sauvignon blend, and the merlot-dominant blend Sophia. A must-visit cellar door experience with an excellent restaurant, Craggy Range also owns the largest vineyard holdings in Martinborough (240ha), all about pinot noir with Aroha Te Muna the pinnacle. 

Bilancia (Hastings) – Warren Gibson and Lorraine Leheny are the talented duo behind this exceptional label, which has enjoyed a cult following since its birth in 1997. The quantities are limited and sell out in a flash, especially the flagship La Collina syrah, a peppery and incredibly detailed wine, although none was made in ’22 due to a challenging vintage and in ’23 due to floods. They also make a complex chardonnay called Tiratore. 

Te Mata Estate (Havelock North) – What is Hawke’s Bay without Te Mata Estate? A very lonely and less interesting place. The estate as we know it has been under the Buck and Morris families since 1974; their Bordeaux blend, Coleraine, made since 1982, enjoys the title of being New Zealand’s most famous red. It’s a stellar, complex wine, built for ageing although glorious on release. 

Tony Bish Wines (Napier) – A top bloke and obsessed with chardonnay. Tony makes a range from the accessible, affordable fat&sassy to the top tiers Skeetfield and Zen. The former is off the eponymous vineyard, barrel fermented and aged, while the latter is made from Skeetfield fruit and aged in a concrete egg. 

On the radar: Amoise, Black Barn, Church Road, Cˇuvar Winery, Elephant Hill, Esk Valley, Easthope Family Winegrowers, Halcyon Days, Kenzie, Radburnd Cellars, Smith & Sheth, Trinity Hall, Vidal.

BACK TO THE SOUTH ISLAND

Nelson

Heading north-west from Marlborough is Nelson, a region I adore. It’s boutique in outlook with the vineyards concentrated on the Waimea Plains and moving towards the Upper Moutere hills. While sauvignon blanc, made in a slightly richer vein, leads, chardonnay is top-notch. But honestly, the main reason I love the place is because of Neudorf. 

Greenough – Another pioneering producer showcasing a sense of place. Very good barrel-fermented and aged pinot blanc. 

ABEL – A new enterprise by Mark and Sophie McGill, she the daughter of ex-Dog Point co-founders, James and Wendy Healy, (who have also moved to the region) and he, the son of a well-known viticulturist. It is a 30ha working farm with a cider apple orchard, as Mark is also a cidermaker. In 2019, they established a close-planted chardonnay vineyard on prized Moutere clay soils. Just chardonnay – and no doubt James Healy lends a helping hand.

North Canterbury / Waipara Valley

Near Christchurch and with the Southern Alps as its backdrop, the Waipara Valley is the quality epicentre in this large area of North Canterbury. It’s cool, dry, doused in the most astonishing sunshine, and has a long growing season. About 1487ha are planted, with pinot noir the lead grape, plus very good riesling, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. 

Pegasus Bay (Waipara) – Long the torchbearer for North Canterbury since its beginnings in 1985. Quality leads on all fronts with captivating riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir and more. Ivan and Christine Donaldson are pioneers in the region and their four sons helped build the business, especially their talented, wonderfully wild but somewhat wiser winemaker son, Matt. 

Bell Hill (Waikari) – In 1997, Sherwyn Veldhuizen and Marcel Giesen (one of three brothers behind the famed, very large and hugely successful Giesen brand) found a bell-shaped patch of land on an old limestone quarry, and planted a small, high-density vineyard with multiple clones of pinot noir and chardonnay. In a word, stunning, although quantities are miniscule. 

Pyramid Valley (Waikari) – One of the most exquisite vineyard sites, it began as a labour of love and madness, handmade from the ground up by Mike and Claudia Weersing. Although they sold in 2017 to Steve Smith MW and American billionaire Brian Sheth, Mike’s untimely death in 2020 left an irreparable hole in many hearts; mine included. The good news, the wines today are compelling, glorious. Steve has expanded the vineyard plantings and added an excellent Central Otago pinot noir from the Lowburn vineyard he and Sheth bought in ’18 to the range.

On the radar: Black Estate, Greystone Vineyard.  

BACK TO THE NORTH ISLAND

Auckland/Kumeu

Kumeu River – If there’s one producer who has done the most to shine a light on a country, on a region, on a variety, it is the peerless Kumeu River. It produces New Zealand’s finest, and unequivocally world-class, chardonnays. It is a family affair, led by the delightful matriarch Melba Brajkovich and her four children, with oldest son Michael guiding the wines. New Zealand’s first Master of Wine, he is one of the most intelligent winemakers I’ve ever met, yet it comes matched to a deep sensitivity. And never forgotten is Maté, his father, the pioneer who died in 1992. The flagship chardonnay bears his name, Maté, in recognition. Single-vineyard wines also include Coddington and Hunting Hill plus the newest addition, Rays Road from Hawke’s Bay. Kumeu River also produce very good crémant styles, pinot noir and pinot gris. In 2024, the Brajkovich family celebrated 80 years of grape growing in the region, a legacy continuing unabated.

Waiheke Island

Man O’ War – This highly regarded producer is now the largest winery on the island (Waiheke Island is a short ferry ride from Auckland) with 75 individual sites across its 1821ha farm. Rich reds rule, including Dreadnought syrah and the Bordeaux blend Ironclad.

Destiny Bay – An extraordinary project from the Spratt family. Son Sean is intrinsic in the winemaking, which features only high-end cabernet blends. 

On the radar: Obsidian, Sam Harrop, Te Motu.

Martinborough

Ata Rangi – One of Aotearoa’s most lauded names thanks to the wonderful people behind it and the land on which they farm. It starts with legend Clive Paton, who founded Ata Rangi in 1980, and continues with its winemaker, the fabulous Helen Masters, who has been there since 2003. Structured yet heady pinot noir is the celebrity, but glorious chardonnay, riesling and pinot gris is produced too. 

On the radar: Cambridge Road, Dry River, Escarpment, Kasuda, Palliser Estate.

Gisborne

Millton Vineyard & Winery – New Zealand’s first organic and biodynamic estate, established in 1984 by James and Annie Millton. With James a respected biodynamic practitioner, caring for the land is of utmost importance. I’ve long loved the wines; heady chenin blanc, chardonnay, riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot noir and more, and styles are constantly tweaked or expanded. Take the exemplary Libiamo range, which sees extended time on skins, and fermentation in open-top barrels and clay amphora. The flagship range, Clos de Ste. Anne, is also in fine form.

This article first appeared in issue #78 of Halliday magazine. Become a member to receive four issues per year, digital access to over 180,000 tasting notes from more than 4000 wineries, plus other benefits.