Why you should drink Australian this festive season (and the iconic homegrown wines to try)

I began this story by writing down all the Australian wines I would serve – if budget were no issue – at my ultimate (read: excessively indulgent) Christmas feast. Then, I asked Halliday’s head of tasting Katrina Butler to add hers. When I stopped to count, our list was at 138. Regretfully and painstakingly we cut it down, trying to limit it to one wine per producer, eliminating categories entirely, both crying quiet tears for those we let go. 

Someone once told me, in reference to a comment made by another who only drank Australian, that “wine is a journey,” implying that anyone who limits themselves to the vinous outputs of just one country is missing the point. And while I vehemently agree with this – as anyone who enjoys wine will attest, one of life’s great joys is to drink as far and wide as humanely possible – too often we put international wines on a pedestal at the expense of our own. 

The reality is that Australian wines are world class. Unbound by the traditions that shackle many of our European counterparts, our winemakers are free to experiment with different varieties, styles and techniques, which they do to wondrous effect. And while it’s true that our industry (although not our land or vines) is comparatively young, it is not so young that we have not had the time to learn a trick or two.

Another, more sobering, reality is that it’s tough out there for our industry right now. Consumption is down, exports are off, the kids won’t drink shiraz. It rains either not enough or too much, and frost and bushfires are somehow a simultaneous risk. More cellar doors are closing than are opening, and although there are too many vineyards, it's the most historic ones that are being replaced with housing estates. If we want the Aussie wine industry to survive, it's crucial we support it. 

So, this festive season (I celebrate Christmas, however note that these wines can be enjoyed at Hannukah, Kwanzaa, or any holiday, denominational or otherwise), I and the rest of the Halliday team are going to practice what we preach. And this is how we’re going to do it.

Tasmania’s cold climate is perfect for sparkling, and our pick of producers – if we had to choose – is either Delamere up north in Pipers Brook, or House of Arras, whose winemaker Ed Carr is one of only two outside Champagne to be named sparkling winemaker of the year in the 40-year history of the prestigious International Wine Challenge. But if it’s sparkling shiraz you’re after – and it wouldn’t be an Aussie Christmas without one – the Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz is an absolute classic.

Jancis Robinson once called Hunter semillon Australia’s gift to the wine world, which grants it a spot on our tables this Christmas. But there are also excellent examples made in the Barossa, like the Estate Semillon from Alkina. The Gentle Folk Sauvignon Blanc is in similar territory – crisp and refreshing but with some textural intrigue, perfect with seafood, salads and cheese, and ultimately crowd-pleasing. 

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