Even those allergic to the romance of wine will find themselves weak at the knees in Western Australia. Just like its wines, the terrain is raw, unforgiving and diverse. The roads between regions are long, the skies staunch – it’s a beast and, truthfully, it scoffs at the idea of being conquered in a mere weekend.
Still, armed with a zippy rental car, some hustle, and the unwavering belief that three cellar doors before lunch is perfectly reasonable, you can cover some serious ground. From slap-you-awake rieslings to forest-grown pinot, this weekend is all about adventure and reckless curiosity. Strap in.
Inside Dormilona's urban winery off Margaret River's main street.
FLY-IN FRIDAY
MARGARET RIVER
If, like me, you’re not a fan of the three-hour drive from Perth, the shiny new Busselton Airport is a game-changer. Just 45 minutes from Margaret River, it’s never been easier to access the South West. And with direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne, that’s fewer Ks – and more vino.
For the wine, skip the classics and focus on the area’s next-gen producers. At Dormilona’s urban winery, located just a few minutes from Margaret River’s main street, Jo Perry crafts wines that are as wildly exotic as they are reassuringly familiar. Think electric chenins, amphora-raised chardonnay, and chewy, chilled reds. Booking required.
Continue south towards McHenry Hohnen’s cellar door in Witchcliffe for biodynamic, site-driven wines. Try the Hazel’s Vineyard Syrah, meaty tempranillos, and a range of singlevineyard chardonnays. Next, stroll 30 seconds down the street for a tasting at Amato Vino’s adorable cellar door.
The Petit Eco Cabin at Windows Estate.
Time for a feed, and if long lunches are Margaret River’s foreplay, then Glenarty Road must be coitus. Th is rustic farmto-table restaurant grows over 80 per cent of its produce on-site– including the wine. Drink the fi ano or savagnin, or, if you’re feeling frisky, try the ocean-matured Fathoms Cuvée sparkling. It’s both salty and satisfying.
For peaceful, vine-surrounded accommodation, try the Petit Eco Cabin at Windows Estate (two-night minimum). Decadent and calming, there’s also an outdoor bath for full freedom.
While you’re there, drop by their cellar door or book their Organic Farm & Vineyard Tour. Dinner? Stay in, or head to Miki’s Open Kitchen for authentic Japanese tempura on Margaret River’s main street.
SATURDAY
SOUTHERN FORESTS, PEMBERTON & MANJIMUP
MORNING: After a coffee from Gracie’s General and cinnamon scrolls from Margaret River Bakery, head for the wild Southern Forests.
The drive into the karri forests is an experience in itself – misty air, giant towering trees, baby dragons. It’s a sight to see. Your first stop today is Pemberton, located an hour-and-a-half east of Margaret River, where rich loamy soils meet quiet dirt roads and humble wines. It’s WA’s quiet achiever. Visit Ampersand Estate’s cellar door for expressive pinot noir, méthode traditionnelle bubbles, and gin made onsite under the ‘Rainfall’ label.
Finish with a walk around their lake and a Pinot Noir Gin Negroni. The whole venue gives The Notebook... minus the tears (and the death).
Karri forests, Pemberton.
For a bit of wild west exposure, join a Pemberton Discovery Tour. Their half-day 4WD trip takes you through the Yeagarup dunes, and down to the wild Southern Ocean. Locals only. Except you. If you do the tour.
AFTERNOON: Time to sniff out some big-budget fungus. Manjimup is only 20 minutes’ drive from Pemberton, and at Hound and Hunter you can stalk truffles on a guided hunt (winter only, naturally). Option’s there to stay for lunch, or, skip the dirty boots and stockpile chicken pâté and fresh truffle instead. It’s the not-so-simple things. As for Manjimup wine? Drink Lonely Shores Pinot Noir. Puckering, tensioned, unmistakable, and great with truffle.
Wrap up the day in Albany (two hours’ from Manjimup) – one of the Great Southern’s five subregions. Accommodation in peak season can be tight, but the Hilton Garden Inn is reliable and right on the waterfront. Maitraya Private Retreat is another option, if you’re feeling fancy.
Dinner is at Liberté, a French-Asian fusion bar and dining room with a gothic-glam fit out. Don’t skip the crab noodles (known locally as “crack noodles”), and pair with La Violetta Riesling, Frankland Estate Pinot Noir, or another local hero.
Singlefile.
SUNDAY
GREAT SOUTHERN, DENMARK, MT BARKER & PORONGURUP
MORNING: For morning refreshments in Albany, grab breakfast and coffee at Bread Co. They mill local wheat in-house, which gives their breads and pastries a true taste of place.
Alternatively, head straight to Denmark (40 minutes from Albany) and make your way to local favourite Singlefile for a complimentary seated tasting. Always over-delivering, their range spans wines from several of the Great Southern's subregions, including Denmark Chardonnay, Mt Barker Riesling, and Frankland River Shiraz.
Lunch calls for a stop at the newly refurbished Denmark Hotel. Here, pub classics meet local wines, and there are 14 rotating beers on tap if you need to refresh your palate.
Now, if you’re making headway, why not fit in one more subregion? A 20-minute drive will take you to Forest Hill in Mt Barker, where you’ll find some of the region’s most respected cool-climate cabernets. I insist you also seek out Guy Lyons’ (Forest Hill) Lowboi range for sassy chardonnay, exhilarating riesling, and elusive grüner veltliner, all from Porongurup.
Forest Hill.
AFTERNOON: Next, head to the most dramatic of the subregions – Porongurup. Raw, rocky, and often overlooked, this is where you’ll find some of Australia’s best rieslings: focused, chalky, and detailed. The kind of wines that make you stand at attention. Pinot noir is also gaining in quality and focus, with standouts from Castle Rock Estate, Mt Trio, and Shepard’s Hut. Call ahead if you want to organise any visits – they don’t get too many visitors.
You can’t visit Porongurup without dropping into Duke’s Vineyard. Now run by Ben Cane and Sarah Date, who took over from the original Duke several years ago, they’ve since introduced small-batch projects like the barrel-fermented K2 Riesling, alongside the historic original range. It’s a sharp line-up – Magpie Hill Riesling, Manjimup Pinot Noir, whole-bunch syrah – each wine stitched together with great structure, restraint and focus.
The area is known for its stunning mountainous terrain – get the knees out and end the day with a hike (or a trudge) up to the Granite Skywalk, or opt for a vineyard view and try the Devil’s Slide. Then, screenshot your maps and hit the road – it’s about three to four hours back to Busselton.
This article first appeared in issue #80 of Halliday magazine. Become a member to receive all four issues per year delivered to your door, digital access to over 185,000 tasting notes, and much more.
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