The Granite Belt wine region is unique and individual, with a dizzying array of grape varieties, bucolic vineyard settings and a dedicated core of quality producers that challenge expectations and offer an impressive vinous exploration. While Queensland and wine aren’t necessarily synonymous to some, the region and its distinctive wines deliver a kaleidoscopic offering that ranges from terroir driven noble varieties to avant garde interpretations through the lens of lesser sung grape varieties.
Wine growing in the Granite Belt dates back to the 19th century, but the modern era kicked off post-World War II, with Italian immigrants and intrepid local farmers-turned-vignerons bringing their passion and know-how to the land. From the 1970s, the region saw a boom in new wine producers, eventually hitting around twenty by the early 1990s.
Local vignerons have long recognised the benefit of the high-country environment, with distinct cooling temperatures an ideal mitigating factor in balanced ripening of fruit compared to the expected warmer days. Vineyards are commonly planted at around 800 metres above sea level, with some vineyards soaring to some of Australia’s highest sites at over 1000 metres. Soils are, as the regional name says, distinctly granitic, exceptional for grape growing and lend frisky, mineral-laced acidity to much of the wines produced here.
However, what has really set Granite Belt apart since its’s foundation era is its diversity of plantings, particularly with the region’s distinct deep dive into non-traditional varieties. Alongside staples of shiraz, verdelho, viognier, chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, Granite Belt is distinguished by a tourism wine drive ‘Strange Bird Trail’ that offers visitors a deep dive into a cornucopia of Australia-planted emerging and alternative grape varieties.
The over-60 grape varieties planted in the region makes not only for an exciting exploration, but also has led to a strong regional identity with notable Italian grape varieties of sangiovese, nebbiolo, barbera, fiano and vermentino excelling in both classic and interpretative styles. There’s also merit in wines made from France’s tannat and Spain’s tempranillo, and some acumen from alvarinho, gros manseng and the alpine red variety mondeuse.
One of the greatest assets of Granite Belt is the sense of purpose and identity that local winemakers are carving out. They’re not trying to be something they’re not; they’re owning the place for its unique terroir, and producing wines that speak of local character. While noble varieties do form a bedrock for the region, the rising identity and quality from wine is found in the focus of distinguished wines that speak fluently of the place, and not aping halcyon varieties, styles and regions of Australia, or homelands of the various varieties.
To carve out a hit list is fraught with missing out on the small batch, unique and one-off plantings, but no visit there should miss the medium weight, spicy variants of sangiovese or tempranillo. While producers create wines from these varieties in styles that deliver everything from nouveau chillable red styles through to ripe and heavily oaked, it’s the mid-bodied, svelte and tannin strewn, minerally offerings that bring some real x-factor.
While shiraz is widely planted around Australia, Granite Belt is a real contended at the apex of releases from the region – expected crushed rock, Aussie bush, black pepper and wild herbs strewn through dark berry fruitiness. Again, the more modest, medium-zone styles are where the best examples are found.
Many producers likewise find excellence in expressing verdelho and viognier, often overlooked varieties in our current climate, though from Granite Belt judicious use of old oak maturation and lees work render savouriness and complexity into these fruity varieties.
So too, fiano and vermentino are increasingly adept from Granite Belt. To reiterate, it’s the savoury elements woven through the two Italian staples that set off fireworks, so too the occasional use of some skin fermentation to eke out some grip from texture, and a sense of structure.
The message is clear from Granite Belt winemakers that there is reward in risk and that the region stands proud in its unique identity. It’s a place that rewards investigation and delivers a compelling wine experience built around diversity.
That it is somewhat quietly one of the most beautiful wine regions in Australia will be the icing on the cake for those that visit, and something to dream of for those drinking the wonderful spectrum of wines from here.
